The Atacama is usually seen through a minibus window. These three days see it on foot and on two wheels instead: across the salt mountains into the Valle de la Luna, up a stream to hot springs, by bike to a lagoon in the middle of the salar, and at dawn among the geysers. San Pedro, an adobe oasis at the foot of the volcanoes, is the base for all of it.
Day 1 · Cordillera de la Sal to the Valle de la Luna
Highlight · The sun going down over the Valle de la Luna, at the end of the walk across the salt range.
Walk · Cordillera de la Sal to the Valle de la Luna · 3–4 h
The morning can go on horseback down the green valley of the Río San Pedro at Katarpe, about four hours, back by the Garganta del Diablo or by the Paso de los Toros, the old road to Calama. In the afternoon, a walk crosses the Cordillera de la Sal into the Valle de la Luna, timed to watch the sun go down over the valley.
Night · San Pedro de Atacama
Day 2 · Puritama and the Salar de Atacama
Highlight · Laguna Cejar, in the middle of the Salar, so salty that bodies float on it.
Walk · Guatín stream
A morning walk up the Guatín stream ends at the Puritama hot springs, with lunch by the pools. In the afternoon, bikes out onto the Salar de Atacama to Laguna Cejar, a lagoon so salty that bodies float on it.
Night · San Pedro de Atacama
Day 3 · El Tatio geysers
Highlight · Breakfast among the steam at 4,300 metres, at the hour when the geysers are most active.
A very early start to reach El Tatio at 4,300 metres, at the hour when the geysers are most active, with breakfast among the steam before driving back down to San Pedro.
