Seen from a kayak, a southern right whale is not a sighting but a neighbour. Península Valdés, almost an island of four thousand square kilometres between the Golfo San José and the Golfo Nuevo, is ringed by cliffs, sand and pebble beaches and wave-cut platforms full of fossils, and its northern gulf is one of the best places on the coast to see whales close to shore. This short expedition paddles it for three days, camping wild on the beaches, with the whales, the sea lions and the birds as company and the long Patagonian sunsets at the end of each day.
Day 1 · Puerto Pirámides to Punta Conos
Highlight · Whales seen from the kayaks on the first paddle along the Golfo San José.
An early drive from Puerto Pirámides across the peninsula to the Golfo San José. At the starting point, the guide fits the kayaks and runs through safety technique and the rules of the protected area, with time to practise before setting out. The paddle follows the coast towards Punta Conos, with a stop for lunch and two more hours on the water before the first camp. Whales can be seen from the kayaks and from the beach. About 10 km of paddling.
Night · Península Valdés
Day 2 · Bahía Fracasso
Highlight · The whole gulf from the top of the cliff above the second camp.
Camp comes down after breakfast and the kayaks head for Bahía Fracasso, where the remains of an old Spanish fort still stand. Lunch on a beach, then along the cliffs to a sheltered bay for the second camp, and a walk up the cliff for a view over the whole gulf. This stretch is one of the best for whales close to shore. About 15 km of paddling.
Night · Península Valdés
Day 3 · Playa Villarino and back to Puerto Pirámides
Highlight · Southern sea lions sliding into the water to come and look at the kayaks.
The last leg passes a southern sea lion colony, whose residents slide into the water to come and look at the kayaks, and ends at Playa Villarino, where a vehicle waits to drive back to Puerto Pirámides. About 10 km of paddling.
