Behind the famous peaks of El Chaltén lies the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest expanses of ice outside the poles, and almost nobody who visits the town ever sees it. The Paso del Viento is the window onto it: a pass reached over moraines and glacier, two days' walk from the last houses, along one of the least trodden trails of the national park. Three days with a guide and porters, two nights at a lake camp, and the ice field at the end.
Day 1 · Up the Río Toro to Laguna Toro
Highlight · The shoulder of the Pliegue Tumbado, with some of the finest views in the park.
Walk · Laguna Toro · 6 h · 500 m climb
Equipment is checked with the guide and porters at the hotel before leaving town. The trail follows the Río Toro and crosses the shoulder of the Pliegue Tumbado, with some of the finest views in the park, to the camp at Laguna Toro.
Night · El Chaltén
Day 2 · Paso del Viento
Highlight · The Southern Ice Field to the west from the pass, and the Viedma glacier below.
Walk · Paso del Viento · 8–9 h · 900 m climb
The long day. Fifty minutes from camp the Río Túnel is crossed, wading or by zip line depending on the water, and the climb goes on over moraines and glacier to the pass. From the top, the Southern Ice Field opens to the west and part of the Viedma glacier lies below. Back down to camp in the afternoon.
Night · El Chaltén
Day 3 · Back to El Chaltén
Highlight · A hot shower and an asado in town to celebrate the crossing.
The walk out to town, a hot shower, and an asado to celebrate.
