Puerto Williams

Puerto Williams sits on the north shore of Navarino island, facing the Argentine coast across the Beagle Channel: a naval base, a small village and the last place where the Yaghan, the canoe people of the channels, still have a community. The Martin Gusinde museum tells their story; behind the village, the jagged peaks of the Dientes de Navarino rise over forest and peat bog.

It is reached by a short flight from Punta Arenas or by boat from Ushuaia, a crossing that depends on the season and the weather. Two or three nights are enough to walk the village, the forest and the first viewpoints; experienced hikers come for the Dientes circuit, four or five days of rough trail with no services. It is also a starting point for sailing trips to Cape Horn. From the Argentine side, Puerto Almanza looks straight across at it.

December to March is the only real season, and the Dientes circuit is best from January to March. Weather changes by the hour all year.