Humahuaca

Humahuaca gives the Quebrada its name: a town of narrow streets and adobe walls at almost three thousand metres, with a colonial church, the large Independence monument above the plaza, and the carnival that is the most celebrated in the north. Twenty-five kilometres away, the Serranía de Hornocal shows a mountainside of fourteen colours from a viewpoint at more than four thousand metres. Beyond the town the valley opens into the Puna, and the road runs north to La Quiaca, on the border with Bolivia.

Most travellers visit as a day from Tilcara or Purmamarca, or spend a night on their way north. An afternoon at Hornocal, when the light falls on the colours, and a walk around the town with a guide are what the day holds. Humahuaca is also the turning for Iruya, three hours east on a mountain road. From La Quiaca, journeys continue into Bolivia towards Tupiza and the Salar de Uyuni.

Winter is dry with very cold nights. The carnival takes over the town in the days before Lent, and lodgings fill well in advance.