El Chaltén

El Chaltén was founded in 1985 on the northern edge of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, and it exists for the mountains. From the village, trails climb through lenga forest to Laguna Torre, under the spire of Cerro Torre, and to Laguna de los Tres, at the foot of Cerro Fitz Roy. North of town the Río de las Vueltas runs down from Lago del Desierto; to the south-east, Lago Viedma ends at the glacier of the same name.

Three or four nights are the minimum, more for real walkers. A long day for Laguna Torre, a longer one for Laguna de los Tres, and in between a gentler day north along the river: a boat on Lago del Desierto and a walk to the Glaciar Huemul, or a kayak down the Río de las Vueltas with Fitz Roy behind. The private Reserva Los Huemules adds quieter trails, the glaciers Marconi and Cagliero, an ice walk and a night at the Puesto Cagliero refuge, facing the glacier. Sleeping options go from the village to Estancia Bonanza, on the north-west face of Fitz Roy, Aguas Arriba Lodge, reached by boat on Lago del Desierto, or a night in the capsules of Ovo Patagonia, hanging on a rock wall.

The season runs from October to April, with the trails at their best from November to March. April turns the lenga forests red; in winter the village mostly closes.