El Calafate

El Calafate grew on the southern shore of Lago Argentino as the gateway to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, and almost everything here is about ice. The Glaciar Perito Moreno, eighty kilometres away, ends in a wall sixty metres high that calves into the lake in front of the walkways; to the north, the arms of the lake lead by boat to the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers and their icebergs. Around the town, the steppe is estancia country, and at Laguna Nimez, on the edge of town, the lake shore is full of birds.

Three nights are the usual. One day belongs to the Perito Moreno: the walkways in front of its face, a boat to the south face, or a walk on the ice with crampons. Another goes on the lake, sailing to Upsala and Spegazzini, on some boats with lunch on board and a walk into the forest. The third is for the country: a day at Estancia Nibepo Aike, on the south arm near Lago Roca, or riding at Estancia Río Mitre above the lake, or kayaking and walking along the turquoise Río La Leona. Remote treks in the park take the glaciers away from the crowds. El Chaltén is three hours north; Ushuaia and Torres del Paine are the usual next steps.

The Perito Moreno can be visited all year. October, November, March and April are quieter than high summer, and in winter the town is almost empty and the glacier just as good.