Calilegua

The Parque Nacional Calilegua protects the yungas, the mountain forest that covers the eastern slopes of the Andes in Jujuy. In a few kilometres the land drops from high grassland to dense, humid forest full of ferns, mosses and orchids. It is one of the best places in Argentina for birds, with several hundred species, and the forest is home to tapirs and jaguars, even if they are rarely seen.

The park is reached from Libertador General San Martín, in the lowlands two hours from Jujuy, and a day or two is enough to walk its trails and look for birds. The other way in is the hard one: a five-day trek from Tilcara, in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, over the mountains and down into the forest, with pack animals carrying the luggage. Either way it shows a side of the Northwest that most journeys miss.

The dry season, from May to October, is the best time. Summer rain makes the forest lush but often closes the road through the park.